This past June I was impressed by the whimsical elegance of Park Avenue Summer’s food and atmosphere. (You can read my review here.) The dining experience was so enjoyable that I left looking forward to returning when the seasonally themed restaurant turned to Autumn. A couple of weeks ago, with guests visiting from Seattle, I got my chance.

Maybe it’s the economy, maybe it’s the upcoming election, or maybe Autumn is just more serious in nature than Summer: vacation is over, the sun disappears earlier, our shoes are closed-toe. Park Avenue Autumn captures these changes with a menu and interior design that are less whimsical than its balmier predecessor. And while I loved Summer in all its fancifulness, Autumn felt just right.

Walnut tones and copper have transformed the space into an earthy enclave while Autumn’s harvest has transformed the menu into a mushroom and fruit laden bounty.

Unfortunately, the genial service of Summer was also replaced – with a cooler kind. Perhaps Summer was better for everyone; or maybe the veteran servers are finding the changing of seasons less exciting.

The menu’s dish descriptions remain just as cryptic as they were during Summer – a feature I really enjoy. Ingredients are listed in detail, but the preparation notes are vague. You’re wooed by the elements, but their compilation holds a surprise or two. You’re staking some trust in the chef, but at Park Avenue, that’s a solid bet.

Stacks of Hamachi and Shaved Shitake were equally balanced in taste and physical appearance. Though the distinct flavors of apples and jalapenos were imparted on the dish, they were kept masterfully in check, never disrupting its subtlety.

Plump scallops waded in a sense-awakening Lemongrass broth, creating something delicate and ethereal.

Parcels of duck confit wrapped in cabbage leaves formed savory and sweet parcels.

The sumptuous Venison Chops were the best I’ve had inside New York City limits. The rich meat, sprinkled with eye-popping pomegranate and pumpkin seeds, was the most tantalizing main dish at the table.

Arctic Char (which, after a hard-fought battle, has overthrown salmon’s reign at the top of my favorite fish list) had a crispy skin and medium rare inside. Bitter swiss chard was foiled by maple soy brown butter.

The only mediocre dish was the Kentucky Fried Quail. Though it arrives in a playful silver bucket (a la the Ipswich Clams of Summer), it was lackluster. It’s Autumn – birds should be stuffed, roasted or grilled.

The table devoured sides of Miso Glazed Brussel Sprouts (so good that I’m looking for its recipe equivalent) and Crispy Cauliflower. A cellophane bag containing a melange of mushrooms arrived at the table and was snipped open with much fanfare. But once the aroma had wafted to the next table, all that was left were salty mushrooms.

The desserts were too precious and finicky. They tasted (and looked) like the wrong conclusion to our hearty Autumn-fest. The meal warranted a piece of tart or pie, but instead we were presented with deconstructed and fussy versions of the tried-and-true.

After this visit, Park Avenue Autumn has proven that this restaurant’s consistency and reliability are far from seasonal.

Park Avenue Autumn

http://www.parkavenyc.com

100 East 63rd Street

New York, NY 10021

212.644.1900

Park Avenue Fall opened in 2007 as the first turn of this truly seasonal restaurant. Four times a year both the interior design and menu would be over-hauled to reflect the current season. I’d read Fall’s excellent reviews and listened to the raves of Winter from friends and family. When Summer’s tide rolled in I could no longer resist.

Chef Craig Koketsu and the AvroKO design time have pulled it off . . . swimmingly. Park Avenue Summer has achieved, maybe even invented, whimsical elegance.

The festive and sophisticated atmosphere at Park Avenue Summer includes a wall of rosé-filled wine bottles (especially made for the restaurant, of course), a whitewashed wood ceiling, and wire lanterns. White tortoise shells decorate yellow-paneled walls. Tall grass and willowy fronds run down the middle of the room. You could swear there’s a breeze. You wiggle your toes, surprised not find sand beneath the table.

For the Amuse Bouche, a small box of grass arrives with skewered cubes of spicy yogurt topped watermelon emerging from the green blades. Cheddar cheese and chile biscuits, sweet corn brioche, and flat breads fill the breadbasket. Who knew summer tasted so good?

Fried Ipswich Clams, ordered from the fanciful Picnic Menu, were served in a red-and-white-checked paper carton and ceremoniously ruined us for any other fried clams we might eat this summer. Two Jersey Sauces – tomato aioli and mustard aioli – are professionally squirted into white ceramic dishes. Paper-thin pinwheels of fried lotus roots were discovered, like a treasure, at the bottom of the carton.

Maine Peekytoe Crab “Gazpacho Style” was a deconstructed version of the seasonal soup. A mound of crab and a stack of julienned vegetables sat side-by-side in a shallow pool of chilled and robust tomato soup.

An array of colorful beets and tomatoes were dressed with ginger and labne yogurt. It was a simple Baby Beet Salad, but also a refreshingly light and delicious one.

Soft Shell Crab was smartly balanced by avocado, strawberry, passion fruit, and white soy. The sweet and soft fruits were superb foils for the salty and crunchy crab.

And those were just our starters . . .

Park Avenue Bouillabaisse delivered on the promise of its posh address. Only the “good stuff” is served in this uptown version – prawns, sea scallops, and halibut. Poured from a thermos, the saffron-based soup’s aroma enveloped our table. As soon as my tablemates got a whiff, pieces of corn brioche were dipped amongst the fish and seafood. It tasted just as good as it smelled.

Sweet and succulent meat was pulled effortlessly from the Grilled Langoustine shells. In my book, they beat out lobster, shrimp, and prawns any day of the week.

Dr. Pepper Braised Ribs, also ordered off the Picnic Menu, was delivered with a tall glass of unadulterated Dr. Pepper and a side of not-too-sweet peach slaw. The meat fell off the bone. The deep-colored sauce was finger licking worthy.

Once my husband had seen the Veal Chop delivered to our neighboring table he closed his menu. Have I mentioned I’m married to a very smart man? The meat was perfectly cooked and seasoned. None of us could recall a better veal chop.

Though the portion sizes at Park Avenue Summer do not warrant side dishes, they’re hard to resist. We opted for the Stuffed Squash Blossoms, fried in a tempura-like batter and filled with creamy cheese.

To say Richard Leach does the desserts would be a gross understatement. He creates them. His sweet inventions are as much for the eyes as for the taste buds.

The Chocolate Cube, a hard-shelled rectangle, was filled with caramel-cinnamon mousse and pieces of devil’s food cake. A scoop of ancho-chile gelato added cold and spicy punch.

Cherry halves and cherry sorbet spruced up the cannoli-style rice pudding. The dish was aptly called Fresh Cherries, Toasted Rice Pudding & Cherry Sorbet. It was also aptly delightful.

Though usually sad to see Summer go, I find myself suddenly excited for Fall.

Park Avenue Summer

http://www.parkavenyc.com

100 East 63rd Street

New York, NY 10021

212.644.1900

From afar, TBar Steak and Lounge could easily be mistaken for a cruise-wear retail store; its orange awning glows brightly on an otherwise muted stretch of Third Avenue.

The space was called The Lenox Room before a renovation last summer. An updated interior with soothing green tones, patterned upholstery, dark wood, and the flamed-colored awning calls to a younger clientele. The makeover was a success as TBar is usually packed with stylish Upper East Siders.

Despite the hipper interior and increased noise level, Chef Ben Zwicker still delivers a diverse menu of solidly prepared food. In a city where steak houses often translate into stark atmospheres, limited menus, gruff service, and mostly-male patrons, TBar has carved out a niche for itself that couldn’t be more aptly suited for the UES.

A raw bar selection, salads, and seafood dominate the Appetizers. Classic Chopped Caesar was elegantly topped with a fried, wonton-like chip, but the lemony taste would not have satisfied someone craving a more creamy dressing. Black Angus Steak Tartar, formed into a hefty square, had just the right balance of mayonnaise, capers, and seasoning.

Lighter dishes, including a handful of fish options and the T-Bar Chopped Salad that can be topped with chicken, NY Strip, or grilled shrimp, are tempting meat alternatives. The shrimp atop freshly cut lettuce and vegetables was laced with charcoal flavor and conveniently cut into bite-sized pieces. Veal Schnitzel Holstein and Rigatoni Alla Bolognese will also have their followers.

In the Steak Bar part of the menu, the usual suspects are available, as are a Veal Chop and Berkshire Pork Chop. The 48 oz. Porterhouse for two was excellent. A charred and well-seasoned ring of flavor encased the tender and flavorful beef. It could easily compete with its brethren at other NYC steakhouses.

While the succulent Berkshire Pork Chop was well-cooked, its blackened salt crust was too thick. Too many bites were overpowered by the brininess.
Similar to any respectable steak house, side dishes are also available. Slightly bitter Broccoli Rabe was sautéed with garlic and olive and oil. Too much salt ruined an earthy mélange of mushrooms.

The first three items on the dessert menu – the Strawberry Sundae, the Banana Parfait, and the Chocolate Sundae – seem like pricey options at $14 each, but their cost is commensurate with their size. Served in fish bowl equivalents, you’ll need at least three diners to devour one of these gargantuan confections. The Strawberry Sundae, with shortcake, meringue, cream, and strawberry ice cream, was sweet and refreshing.

TBar Steak and Lounge’s descriptive moniker makes good on all its promises. If you live nearby, it might make your semi-regular rotation, and if you find yourself in the neighborhood, it can be worth a visit.

TBar Steak and Lounge

www.tbarnyc.com

1278 Third Avenue

New York, NY 10021

212.772.0404

Mia Dona had been on my dining “hit list” since it opened in February. A Friday night dinner with my UES-dwelling and Italian-food-loving parents seemed the ideal opportunity to try out Michael Psilakis and Donatella Arpaia’s latest effort.

This is Psilakis and Arpaia’s second Italian collaboration (though they are also partners in Kefi and Anthos), and a more casual reincarnation of its predecessor. Their first Italian, Dona, which opened in 2006, closed after less than a year due to rental woes.

Mia Dona, fashioned like a home, is meant to foster a relaxed atmosphere for a family meal. The three dining areas in the long-and-narrow space are designed as individual residential rooms. We were seated in the would-be library, decorated in light-colored wood and bookshelves. Ironically, the noise level was raucous. Tables are only inches apart and the ceilings are claustrophobically low.

If the Appetizers and Entrees were competing in the Mia Dona Olympics, the first courses would be awarded the gold medal while the Entrees would be lucky to receive the bronze. The disparity between the two courses was so immense that my husband deemed our experience “The Tale of Two Kitchens”.

The Appetizers were well-seasoned and intricate without being fussy.

A Spiedini starter consisted of skewered quail, merguez, sweetbreads, pork involtini, and lamb polpetti. The pork and lamb were memorable, if not triumphant.

Feta cheese and a tangy, piquillo pepper vinaigrette balanced a delicate and tender Grilled Octopus.

Two specials were independently victorious. Tempura fried squash blossoms over grilled romaine was inspired while a crock of creamy and light sheep’s milk cheese served with grilled bread succeeded in its rustic simplicity.

If only our meal had ended when those empty plates were cleared.

For the Entrees, the lack of protein diversity was incredibly disappointing. Chicken Paillard, Hangar Steak, and four fish dishes were the only non-pasta offerings. Where was the veal and lamb I had read so much about? Even the signature rabbit (albeit an appetizer) was conspicuously missing.

Delicate fish was overwhelmed by too many potent accompaniments. Broccoli rabe, sausage, clams, and sundried tomato beleaguered the Roasted Black Bass. Taste buds were assaulted by alternating bites of spice, salt, and bitterness. Even on its own the bass was briny and over-seasoned; as though someone realized the fish had been trumped and tried to shore it up.

Roasted Skate fared slightly better, but paring down the bed of ramps, pancetta, fingerling potatoes, and escarole would have given the well-cooked fish center stage. Instead of allowing the accompanying flavors to complement the fish, the skate had to settle for being merely another accessory on the plate.

Grilled Swordfish, escorted only by delightful cauliflower caponata and crunchy fiddlehead ferns was a step in the right direction. But finally, just when the fish had been given its proper due, it was dry and overcooked.

Surprisingly, the Chicken Paillard, adorned with strawberries, spinach, and bacon, was the table’s best entrée. The moist chicken was pounded to perfection and the sweet and salty components also lent acid, texture, and color.

A side of limp Grilled Asparagus was dressed elegantly with parmesan and lemon.

After the dissatisfying entrees (two of us didn’t even finish our dishes) we almost passed on dessert, but eventually opted for the Apple & Almond Napoleon. While the custard filling was velvety and light, neither the apple nor almond flavors were apparent.

With no entrée over $24, Mia Dona’s prices are reasonable and if everyone at your table orders an Appetizer and no one gets fish, you just might like this place enough to return. For us, the excellent beginning was not enough to overcome the mediocre middle and lackluster ending.

Mia Dona

www.miadona.com

206 East 58th Street

New York, NY 10022

212.750.8170

The fish is delectable, the flavors are delightful, and the presentations are flawless. To fully appreciate the taste and craftsmanship, conversation should cease while you chew and swallow each bite of heaven. It’s the omakase at Sushi of Gari. My mouth waters at the mere thought of it.

Sit at the sushi bar, sip on sake, and watch the masterful chefs assemble divine, and somewhat radical, preparations of sushi. Gari’s omakase might not be as ground breaking as when it first burst onto the sushi scene, but it is just as fabulous. Gari (nickname for chef Masatoshi Sugio) takes individual pieces of high-quality, melt-in-your-mouth fish (your choice of nigiri or sashimi) and balances its flavor and texture with a unique topping. Even the most purist of sushi lovers will applaud the outcomes.

Gari’s success has allowed for expansion and there are three outposts – the UES original, a hipster UWS site, and a midtown venue. I’ll admit that I’ve never had anything but the omakase at any of Gari’s establishments, but I can’t find a single reason to stray from the innovative nibbles. (Yes, I’ve been to all three and I can confidently report that Gari’s fleet of sushi chefs churn out the same wondrous bites at all of them.)

There’s tuna with tofu paste – the reddish color and silky texture of the fish contrast beautifully with the pale and slightly gritty dollop. A mini-salad of lettuce, vinaigrette, and pine nuts rests atop a glistening piece of red snapper. Salmon is topped with cooked onions and tomato – the vegetables’ heat radiates into the piece of fish below them, softening it further so the entire bite dissolves in your mouth. Golden-eyed snapper is adorned with dried seaweed. An oyster is broiled with rice and breadcrumbs and served hot in the oyster shell; a Japanese rendition of clams casino. Need I go on?

The bites are always expertly balanced – seemingly bizarre toppings pair beautifully with their respective fish. It’s far from cheap, but it’s worth it. After he has prepared about ten pieces of fish for you, the sushi chef will ask if you’d like to keep eating. I’ve never been able to say no.

Sushi of Gari

www.sushiofgari.com

Multiple Locations