We were in a restaurant death spiral, plummeting towards the point of no return. Service had been abysmal. The first course was middling. The lengthy wait for our entrees had turned painful. Our shoulders sagged. Regrets that we had decided to eat at a week-old restaurant were voiced. Someone suggested we cut our losses and bail.

But then the seemingly impossible happened; the free fall was stopped mid-plunge. The arrival of our entrees commenced an unprecedented turnaround. But more on that later . . .

Trigo’s stunning interior of steel latticework and floor to ceiling windows has a warehouse-meets-train station feel. The setting was eerily fitting for our absent server. Had he caught a train to Poughkeepsie? Gotten lost in the vast space? We had to ask for menus. We had to ask for water. We had to track him down to order.

We were never welcomed, nor thanked, for choosing to dine at Trigo in its opening week. No one explained the menu, a potentially confusing compilation of eight sections. When I got home I visited Trigo’s website and learned they offer “a shared plate menu” with “accessible Mediterranean-influenced dishes prepared with market-driven ingredients.” Who knew?

We chose a variety of dishes from Trigo’s antipasto listing and then everyone selected their own entrée. Whether this is what Trigo’s chef and owner envisioned, we’ll never know.

The cured meats (from the butcher block section) and cheeses (from the cheese board) were all fine and good, but far from exciting.

All the room temperature antipasto dishes from the fish market and farmstand sections were like science experiments gone awry. Marinated olives were gingered. Pickled pumpkin was raw. Roasted mushrooms were stripped of their earthiness. Octopus confit was chewy and fishy.

It was the from the hearth section of the menu that rescued the first course; a beacon in an otherwise dreary sea. It was the ingredients that wooed us to this part of the menu; we didn’t know (read: weren’t told) that every dish in the section was cooked on the same rustic flat bread. The lamb with chilies was divine. The onion tart was very, very good. My post-dining research revealed that Trigo has an earthen oven on premises. Seems like a tidbit of information worth sharing with your restaurant patrons.

It very well might have been the flat breads that keep us buoyant, our heads above water, as we waited for our entrees. When they did finally arrive, it was as though we had been transported to a completely different restaurant. We took our first bites and looked at each other, stunned.

Subtle and sublime spices tantalized our taste buds. The aromatics were triumphant. Juicy Guinea Hen was roasted with African spices. The lamb duo, a combination of ribs and loin, was prepared expertly. The lamb ribs were charred, the meat falling off its bones. Scallops were seared to perfection and propped elegantly on cauliflower puree. Every plate was licked clean.

While a side of vegetables was delectably roasted, its contents of mostly onions and carrots were disappointing. An order of mushroom fries was delightful, the only downside is that the standard Idaho variety is mixed into the pile as filler.

At this point, the dining crowd had thinned and we were receiving much better service. Our server even took the time to recommend a dessert or two while our water glasses were refilled.

The desserts, which arrived expeditiously, pushed Trigo farther down the redemption path. Bomboloni, warm chocolate donuts served with vanilla mascarpone and crunchy chocolate bites, are a must. The chocolate “Candy Bar,” made with halva, chocolate mousse, and butterscotch was decadent without being hefty. The lemon mousse and fennel cake was light, but not on flavor.

As I’ve said before, “any new dining venture is bound to have its handful of issues.” If Trigo can fix theirs, they might cross the finish line a winner.

Trigo

http://www.trigorestaurant.com

268 West Broadway

New York, NY 10012

212.925.1600

For those of you who are regular readers of Cleaned My Plate, you’ve probably noticed a theme that runs through many of my dinner reviews: cost. I feel very fortunate to be able to dine in NYC without a corporate expense account or newspaper paying for my dinner tabs. (At press time, Cleaned My Plate had not yet been picked up for syndication.) But that’s one of the main reasons why cost always factors into how I feel about the food a restaurant serves and the experience it provides. I’m always asking myself, “Was it worth it?”

With a recession looming over us like a rain cloud, it was time to put my money where my mouth is and try one of the restaurants courting the penny pincher. Enter Dennis Foy’s $27 two-course prix fixe.

Any review I’ve read of Dennis Foy has mentioned that it’s one of TriBeCa’s best-kept secrets. With only three tables of diners in the restaurant, it might not be just a well-kept secret, but perhaps, a dying one. It’s entirely possible that the new prix fixe menu is meant to woo new diners, not to necessarily keep old ones.

After looking around at the sparsely populated dining room, my friend leaned into the table and whispered with a smile, “We better have some really good service!” It was certainly gracious, and fairly professional, but I wouldn’t put it in the “really good” category.

Before Dennis Foy rolled out its budget-conscious prix fixe, appetizers ranged from $8-$14 and entrees from $22-$28. Paying $27 for a choice of appetizer and entrée from the original menu was clearly a bargain for my wallet. As it turned out, my taste buds paid the price.

The appetizer described as a Warm Goat Cheese Tart was in fact, served cold. Foy’s version cleverly substitutes robust tomato confit for dough, but that wasn’t enough to rescue the dish. Poor quality cheese and a sprinkling of store bought breadcrumbs (yes, I’m talking about the kind that comes in a blue canister) were shameful.

While none of our other dishes were as egregiously dishonorable as the tart, they were mundane at best. The Day Boat Scallops and Seared Red Snapper were reminiscent of meals I’ve made in my own kitchen, their moderate success never deserving of repetition. In short, fine but forgettable.

The homemade pastas were the only displays of culinary accomplishment, though their preparations did nothing to bolster their merit. Gnocchi were firm, yet pillow-like. They were primed for simple goodness, but were instead doused in flavorless garlic and sage dressing.

The Classic Veal Bolognese made with ribbons of handmade fettuccini deserved credit for its sauce-to-pasta ratio, but for a dish that’s meant to be hearty, it was devoid of robustness. Parmesan cheese wasn’t offered with the pasta; not quite shameful, but far from acceptable.

I had never eaten at Dennis Foy before the $27 prix fixe was introduced and I cannot compare the quality of the two menus. On this particular evening, we were lured by the promise of fine dining at a reduced cost. In the end, we got what we paid for.

Dennis Foy

http://www.dennisfoynyc.com

313 Church Street

New York, NY 10013

212.625.1007

Achieving balance, subtlety, and consistency are the ambitions of many restaurants, though such lofty goals are often elusive. The Harrison could be the poster-child for all three. Amanda Freitag, who has been running The Harrison’s kitchen since January, should be crowned the Queen of Equilibrium. Just the right touch of acid, salt, spice, and texture leaves her dishes poised like perfectly balanced seesaws. But for anyone not paying close attention, Freitag’s performance can easily be overlooked.

The Harrison, which occupies a prime corner lot in TriBeCa, has an atmosphere that matches its food. It’s charming and understated, but a level of concentration is required to appreciate most of its nuances. Somehow the dark wood floors and white wainscot walls disappear into obscurity. If you didn’t study the surroundings, you might never be able to describe them. For some, this is masterfully crafted décor. For others, the subtlety will be unexciting.

The list of Appetizers, longer than that of the Entrees, showed a bit more flair and inventiveness than the larger courses.

A refreshing salad of finely chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, and feta wonderfully complemented the flavor and texture of Char Grilled Octopus. The salty cheese was an unexpected success.

Rectangular shaped Crispy Shrimp would be more aptly described as a shrimp cake. But rest assured, there was no filler here. The panko flakes were crunchy, the lemon aioli was creamy, and the old bay added kick. Blissful symmetry.

Red beets were julienned and mixed with finely ground pistachio crumbs before being artfully piled like matchsticks atop velvety robiolina cheese. While the beets sacrificed some moisture for appearance, Beet Salad never looked so original.

The sole appetizer misstep was the Yellowfin Tuna whose silky texture and light taste were completely overpowered by an array of pickled vegetables.

There was only one off kilter entrée, a stack of Grilled Trout filets that looked much more balanced than it tasted. While forkfuls with horseradish and sliced almonds effectively jazzed up the bland fish, they were too far and few between.

Expertly Grilled NY Strip Steak was encrusted in marrow butter. The rich exterior carried every bite of the thick-cut meat while a bed of tuscan kale added just a hint of tartness.

If ever a dish could be called feminine, it would be the Slow Cooked Arctic Char. The sweet-tasting and candy-colored fish was delicately foiled by tangy and acidic, pink grapefruit. Honshimeji mushrooms provided much needed chew to a dish whose other components melted in your mouth.

No matter what you order, get a side of Duckfat Fries. No explanation necessary.

The desserts, striving for the balance the savory dishes achieved so flawlessly, couldn’t make the leap. A dark chocolate mousse served in a salty pretzel crust had the right idea, but the chocolate needed more depth and the crust, less salt. Similarly, a parfait of chocolate, marshmallows, and cookies fell flat. It needed more crunch.

Perhaps we needed the desserts to remind us that though Freitag’s dishes appeared effortless, her food deserves much applause.

The Harrison

www.theharrison.com/harrison.html

355 Greenwich Street

New York, NY 10013

212.274.9310

Robert DeNiro put another stamp on TriBeCa last week with the opening of Ago, the newest outpost of his Tuscan-inspired restaurant helmed by Chef Agostino Sciandri. Ago is strategically located in DeNiro’s Greenwich Hotel, scheduled to open shortly.

It was only the second night Ago had been open, but the bar was crowded with lively patrons and the front dining room was filled. Tiled floors, white tablecloths, mis-matched wooden chairs, and softly lit sconces set in mosaics, create an attractive and comfortable setting. Instead of creating a faux oasis, gigantic windows look out onto the street flaunting your New York City location. How very DeNiro.

Three hostesses greeted us at the door though not one of them offered to take our jackets, leaving me to wonder why this vast space was designed without a coat check. Staff buzzed around us for the entire night as if we were honeycomb. There seemed to be an inordinate amount of service people, each with a separate task. The delivery of the bread basket, the refilling of water glasses, the presentation of dishes, and the clearing of plates were all performed by different people. Genuine smiles graced their faces as “buona seras” escaped from their lips. You continually got the impression that every staff person cared whether or not you enjoyed your dining experience.

The only constant face, our server, was so attentive he bordered on suffocating. It was his authentic Italian accent (most of the staff seemed to hail from the boot-shaped country) and adorable demeanor that made his omniscient presence enjoyable. The only big service snafu was when our entrees arrived before we had finished our starters. Our server, however, was incredibly apologetic and I suspect the error was an early wrinkle that has already been ironed out.

Pasta, fish, and meat dishes with Tuscan roots and New York prices abound. A wood-burning oven turns out three different pizzas that priced at $14-$16, are the best (if not only) deals on the menu. Presentation was baffling. Dishes were plated without sophisticated refinement or rustic candor, leaving them to look like sloppy compositions created without any aesthetic care.

Three skewers of Seppiolini (cuttlefish) baked with an herbed breadcrumb coating lay atop risina beans, oven dried tomatoes, and squid ink. The delicate seafood was tender and the flavors subtle, but the tremendous quantity of beans threw off the balance of the dish as well as its appearance.

Similarly plated, the dainty Quaglia (quail) was splayed on a too-giant pile of stewed lentils. The juicy quail and gritty lentils, however, made a nice pairing.

For an entrée, green Cappelletti (“little hats”) pasta, were filled with ground veal. Dressed simply with butter, sage, and Parmigiano cheese, the pasta cones were savory and moist, but at $24 and closer to a starter size, not worth the cost.

Risotto Di Pesce (seafood risotto), with a reddish hue and tomato base, was more reminiscent of paella or bouillabaisse. We craved creaminess and decadence, though generous amounts of shellfish, especially the meaty mussels, provided some consolation.

Two tired looking filets of tomato and basil infused Branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) were cooked well, but tasted bland. Even the accompanying roasted potatoes needed multiple shakes of salt. With every bite I regretted letting the servers remove the uneaten spoonfuls of beans and lentils from our starter dishes – who knew they would have come in handy.

The eleven-option dessert menu was one of the longer ones I’ve seen recently. Though the Millefoglie Diplomatico was the most sophisticated and elegant looking dish to grace our table the entire evening, it was our least favorite. The delicate layers of puff pastry and vanilla custard were overpowered by the Alkermes liquor.

With a little more focus on plating and a few seasoning tweaks, Ago should be another success for TriBeCa, and DeNiro.

Ago

www.agorestaurant.com

377 Greenwich Street

New York, NY 10013

212.925.3797

Wolfgang Zweiner left his position as head waiter of the famed Peter Luger to open his own namesake steakhouse in the borough of Manhattan. The first Wolfgang’s emerged on Park Avenue in midtown, though last night we dined at his second outpost on Greenwich Street in TriBeCa. Decades at Luger’s certainly showed Zweiner the success a New York steakhouse can enjoy and no one can deny Zweiner’s business savvy for opening meat havens in the two financial meccas of the city. Zweiner has not strayed far (if at all) from the well established formula born out of Brooklyn and as a city dweller, his restaurants do seem more geographically accessible. I haven’t been to Luger’s in years, (a jaunt is currently being planned for December) but my memory and taste buds remember it being better than what we experienced last night. Perhaps imitation is not so easy.

Wolfgang’s design is typical steakhouse: wide-plank wooden floors, white linens, and simple cutlery. Aesthetically pleasing arched ceilings are interrupted by medieval-style chandeliers that throw off an unappetizing yellow glow. Acoustics were excellent and it was easy to carry on a conversation. I’ve come to anticipate somewhat gruff service at steakhouses and Wolfgang’s lived up to this expectation. A waiter of few words took our order, haphazardly sloshed wine into our glasses, and spooned side dishes on to our plates with little abandon. The wait staff hustled and bustled about us through the entire meal, constantly checking in on how far along we were in the respective course, conveying the feeling that we should be eating a bit faster. After dessert, however, we were one of two tables left in the dining room and finding someone to bring us the check was nearly impossible.

Caesar salad, tomato and mozzarella slices, and slabs of Canadian bacon arrived at the table mere minutes after they were ordered. The Caesar salad featured meager, seemingly store bought croutons, and a bland dressing that left much to be desired. The buffalo mozzarella had wonderful texture, holding its shape atop vibrant, red tomatoes, but then dissolving in your mouth. The bacon strips are heavy with smoky flavor. The fat doesn’t quite render on these meaty pieces, leaving somewhat chewy, albeit flavorful, slabs of ham.

Wanting to try a few cuts of meat, our table of five opted for Wolfgang’s signature porterhouse, a filet, and a ribeye. The porterhouse was encased in a perfect, black coat of char that never tasted burnt. Cutting into the outer layer revealed beautiful medium rare meat, both savory and tender. The strip loin side of the bone was excellent; the filet side was exceptional. Not nearly as exceptional was the cut of filet prepared and served separately. While the filet was tender, it did not melt in your mouth nor cut like butter; two qualities I covet from a filet. The ribeye was the biggest disappointment and lacked the characteristics that usually make this cut of beef so appealing. Though well marbled, the ribeye was very tough and was dwarfed in flavor compared to the porterhouse. While some might say we erred to stray from the signature porterhouse in the first place, I would argue that all cuts of beef should be excellent in their own rite at a top notch steakhouse.

To me, the sides are an integral part of steakhouse dining. Wolfgang’s side dishes would benefit from some attention and and some serious improvement. With most pieces devoid of crispy edges, the hash browns were undercooked and underseasoned. The sautéed onions were caramelized to a warm brown and soft without being mushy. The creamed spinach had a nice consistency, but lacked richness and depth of flavor.

Before the pieces of pecan and key lime pie were brought to the table, we had a lively discussion surrounding the traits we look for in these particular desserts. As if on cue, the desserts arrived, devoid of all the imperatives we had discussed. The pecan pie was mushy and light on the nuts. The key lime pie had a good, creamy texture, but not the sufficient tartness.

The porterhouse steak was undeniably enjoyable, but I’m pretty certain I’ll venture across the Brooklyn Bridge to see if my memory serves me correctly before returning here.

Wolfgang’s

www.wolfgangssteakhouse.com

409 Greenwich Street

New York, NY 10013

(212) 925-0350

Since 1989, Il Giglio has been providing stellar Northern Italian fare to in-the-know New Yorkers. Tucked away on a quiet stretch of Warren Street in TriBeCa, it is not likely a place you would stumble across, but it is worth seeking out. The green awning on the restaurant’s façade looks to be the original signage and provides apt hints of the interior’s décor. Other than a tiered display of antipasti in the entry way, the white-washed and windowless walls only house a few pieces of scattered art.

Time and again, the service here is some of the best I’ve experienced in the city. Expert wait staff buzz about the dining room, moving quickly, but never appearing harried. Every request is granted with astounding speed and whether you’d like a faster meal, or you’d like to linger over your cappuccino, your needs will be met. The menu at Il Giglio might look unimpressive, but be sure to listen closely when the server stands tableside to recite a list of specials. Most of these are not of the daily kind, but rather dishes that are always available, and ones that most returning customers, crave.

The moment you’re seated, waiters deluge your table with free antipasti treats: parmesan chunks, salami, tomato bruschetta, and zucchini slices. While all entertain your taste buds while you contemplate your order, the zucchini deserves full attention of mind and body. The slender discs are fried, cooled, and then delivered dripping in olive oil. They are addictive, and yes, you can ask for another helping.

The Caesar, Endive, and Mixed Greens are all fresh salads that promise to leave room for your entrée. Il Giglio will happily compile a colorful and varied ensemble of mixed antipasti, for as few as one diner. The special pasta starter, featuring two different pastas presented side-by-side, is the outright winner. Stuffed ravioli pillows and ribbons of papperdelle, both homemade, are the usual components.

Breadcrumbs adhere to a juicy rack of lamb with the help of Dijon mustard while a deep Barolo wine sauce pools under the bones. Lightly breaded and fried veal, topped with sage and prosciutto make for a delectable Saltimbocca Alla Fiorentina. The saltimbocca trumped the somewhat bland Scaloppine Di Vitello Pizzaiola, which lacked texture and flair. The Langostines, however, conquer all. Luscious and sweet meat can be plucked from these small lobster shells with ease. A preparation of garlic, herbs and white wine along with the diner’s choice of risotto, pasta, or rice allows the crustacean to shine.

For a large party, the assorted dessert plate is ideal. Multiple forks can simultaneously access slices of ricotta cheesecake, chocolate mousse cake, tiramisu, and strawberries with Zabaglione. If you’re not in an appropriately sized group to descend on such a platter, the tiramisu and zabaglione are strong standouts.

Il Giglio

www.ilgigliorestaurant.com

81 Warren Street

New York, NY 10007

(212) 571-5555

Having dined at a number of Nobu outfits across the globe, as new Manhattan residents it seemed almost necessary to visit the flagship restaurant in TriBeCa. Nobu Matsuhisa revolutionized Japanese cuisine. Chefs around the world have mimicked his dishes and while it is now possible to have a “nobu-like” meal in many restaurants, homage must be paid to the master and to the restaurant where it all began.

The sublime interior at Nobu Tribeca, constructed of wood, stone and dotted with birch trees, successfully evokes a vision of rural Japan. More recently opened Nobu outposts feature overly slick designs and cater to a clientele often more interested in being seen than appreciating Matsuhisa’s stellar cuisine. Nobu Tribeca provides a calming and serene atmosphere where the patrons seem eager to delight in modern Japanese dishes.  

We opted to sit at the sushi bar, our favorite place to enjoy Japanese food. It seemed only right to hone in on Matsuhisa’s signature dishes and despite some guilt at our lack of originality, we eagerly ordered yellowtail sashimi and jalapeno, rock shrimp tempura, and black cod with miso. The order did, however, feel a bit low on raw fish and we quickly added in handful of sashimi pieces. The yellowtail and jalapeno is a dish that I have had at many a Japanese restaurant, well before I even dined at my first Nobu. The dish relies heavily on the taste and texture of the yellowtail, which while very good this particular night, was not excellent. (This is where I remind you that we’ve just come from Seattle, spoiled by the freshest fish and more specifically, some of the best yellowtail we’ve had anywhere.) Speaking of Seattle, one of our favorite Japanese restaurants in the Emerald City added a small garlic chip to their rendition of this starter and the added texture and crunch brought the dish to another level. (Perhaps Matsuhisa should start to borrow back some ideas.) The rock shrimp tempura was outstanding. Large pieces of meaty shrimp are perfectly battered and fried. The tempura that encases each bite of shrimp is just the right density, providing flavor balance without overpowering the shrimp. Even when you get to the bottom of the pile, and yes, it is quite a pile, the once buried pieces are still not soggy. They’ve somehow retained their crispy out layer. While you might see miso black cod on many a menu, Matsuhisa’s version is one of the best. For days before it makes its way to the grill, the black cod sits in a marinade of sake, miso, mirin, and sugar. To achieve its black, sticky and flavorful exterior, the black cod is grilled before it is baked in an oven. The process culminates in a piece of fish so luscious that it is easily devoured with chopsticks; flaky pieces of sweet fish literally fall away from the fillet. The sashimi was all very good, but nothing spectacular. All the pieces had great texture, but not overwhelmingly incredible taste.

Nobu is expensive, and though you can have similarly prepared food at a number of restaurants, there is something special about dining at Matuhisa’s first outpost. It is a bit of culinary history and worth the price of entry.

Nobu

www.noburestaurants.com

105 Hudson Street

New York, NY 10013

(212) 219-0500