Don’t worry, your computer screen is not experiencing a green tint malfunction. Matcha Box, a SoHo pop-up, is capitalizing on the goodness of green with matcha-based drinks and sweets. The mini-store is care of Alissa White, the green goddess behind Matcha Source, who is in Manhattan for the month of June to share her love of all things matcha with New Yorkers. (For the tea-challenged: Matcha is a Japanese green tea that is at the heart of the very special Japanese tea ceremony.)

The offerings at Matcha Box are limited, but the flavor is intense. Hot Matcha, Iced Matcha, and Matcha Lattes are made with care by a skilled brewologist. The result is an emerald drink that is just as bright and refreshing in taste as it is in color.

The treats, created by pastry chef Jessica Chien, all use matcha in one way or another (dust here, glaze there) and nicely adhere to the color scheme. The pillowy Match-mallow was the best of the lot, followed closely by the Madeleine and an oddly addictive Marshmallow Munchy. The shortbread cookie – with too much matcha and not enough buttery taste – was the only sweet that wasn’t carefully balanced.

Matcha Box is only scheduled to be open until the end of June, so hurry up and get your green on.

Matcha Box is located at 33 Crosby Street and according to their website, will be open Saturday through Tuesday from 11am to 7pm.

In Manhattan’s vast dining landscape, Lusso won’t likely register a blip on the Richter scale. But in SoHo (my stomping ground), the magnitude could be much greater. Who doesn’t anticipate a new restaurant opening in their neighborhood? We’re always hoping it’s going to be the new go-to place; our Thursday night savior.

Lusso is located on the corner of West Broadway and Grand, SoHo’s mecca of mediocre dining. Its neighbors include Felix, Diva, and Novecento. And those are just the ones within spitting distance. Relatively speaking, culinary superiority should not be too difficult a feat.

Dark wooden tables, exposed brick walls, and flickering votives create an attractive ambiance with a downtown vibe. Though the bar area is small, much attention has been paid to the drink menu and a plasma television sits atop the liquor shelves. The way the tables are situated, most diners can’t see the screen, but you know it’s there, and its hard not to wonder whether new-owner Michael Carpinillo is more concerned with wooing drinkers or diners.

The Crostini with chicken liver heightened our expectations. Decadent, smooth, and rich pate was generously slathered atop slices of bread that were both soft and crusty.

The Gnocchi that followed was not as impressive, but for pasta that is often made with too much heft and not enough finesse, Lusso’s was very good. While its dressing of cream sauce, and garnish of peas, bacon, and mushrooms, weren’t novel, it was an earthy and pleasant dish.

It was the next set of dishes that lost their foothold.  A crock of Lasagna with lamb, celery root béchamel, and spinach pasta was soupy and bland. The overcooked lasagna noodles were limp and lifeless. The less-than-robust marinara sauce was thin.

The sight of the Anatra, roasted duck breast perched atop brussel sprouts and farro, falsely elevated our hopes before dropping them back on West Broadway. The duck was drastically under seasoned. The menu’s promise of cherry agro dolce was limited to a few whole cherries that we desperately cut into small pieces to disperse among our otherwise dull and flavorless bites.

Full, but not content, it was the homemade ladyfingers that convinced us to order the Tiramisu for Two. When it arrived in the same crock the lasagna had been served in we experienced a distasteful dining déjà vu. But one bite of the balanced confection had us swooning. Both the texture and density were idyllic. The cream was lavish.

Lusso also gets praise for attentive and friendly service; both were superior to what we’ve recently experienced in restaurants across Manhattan. In that sense, Lusso was a very good neighbor. But will the neighborhood return the sentiment? Only time will tell.

Lusso

www.lussonyc.com

331 W. Broadway

New York, NY 10013

(212) 431-0131

Delectable pan-asian food.
Bold flavors.
Cheap prices.
Friendly service.

Those four sentences explain why I have a huge crush on Mooncake Foods in SoHo. My love affair with this quirky, diner-like eatery started with lunch. Since then I’ve returned countless times, for lunch and dinner. Sometimes it’s just my husband and I; sometimes we go with friends. Over Christmas we were a party of nine family members. Regardless of meal or company, everyone leaves smitten with Mooncake’s cozy feel and fabulous food.

Most of you probably haven’t heard of it, and I’ve spent a fair amount of time deciding whether or not to share it with you. But it’s the New Year and I’m feeling generous. Consider this review a belated holiday present.

Chicken wings, glazed with honey and soy, get the browning treatment under the broiler. Make sure you get the piquant, jalapeno dipping sauce.

Oversized mussels are baked with sambal mayo.

Dare I tell you these delicious starters are just $4.50? The retro prices match the décor.

A handful of menu sections offer heavier fare: sandwiches, salads, wonton soups, a section simply called “plates”, and daily dinner specials. Dinner specials and a killer dish of Grilled Prawns and Glass Noodles will run you $16. Everything else tops out at $8.80. Yes, it’s almost obscene.

This is where one might begin to worry about the ingredients and the portion sizes. They’ve got to cut a corner somewhere, right? Wrong. Mooncake’s meats and fish are fresh. Their vegetables are bright and crispy. Their portions are generous (there’s even a good chance you’ll have leftovers).

The steak sandwich (“add a buck for cheese”) is laden with juicy bites of beef and vibrant peppers.

Spicy Hoisin Fish Tacos are the make-your-own variety. A filet of moist white fish is grilled on a banana leaf and served with hoisin sauce, flour tortillas, and cucumber slivers.

The Miso-Glazed Salmon has more flavor than at restaurants who charge triple for a smaller portion.

The salads are served in the deepest of bowls; a bottomless pit of green leaves and innovative dressings. The Warm Portobello Caesar with salmon and tofu dressing is my personal favorite.

The only dishes I’ve found disappointing are from the wonton soup category. It’s the only place where Mooncake’s healthy fare backfires. The MSG is missing, and to me, so is the flavor.

The menu is lengthy. The flavors are abundant. I’m confident it’s hard to mis-order at this SoHo gem. You too, will be over the moon.

Mooncake Foods

Cash Only

28 Watts Street

New York, NY 10013

212.219.8888

ps. There’s also a Chelsea location.

During the four years my husband and I lived in Seattle, we had under a dozen visitors; that’s one visitor every four months. Here in New York City, we’ve had too many to count. They come to the Big Apples in droves.

Rest assured, not every visitor stays with us. But regardless of where they lay their sightseeing eyes or business minds to rest, there is usually at least one night when we’re in charge of satiating their palates.

Selecting and recommending New York City restaurants is an art form. The options are endless and each restaurant has distinct personality traits. There’s the cuisine, the cost, and the location – just to name a few.

I take this work seriously and spend a lot of time matching up specific culinary tastes and desires to a fitting restaurant. Sometimes I push people in a direction that they might not have picked on their own. I love it when people simply say, “surprise me”. It’s not unlike a dating service.

I know, I know. Where I am going with all of this? I’m going to Raoul’s.

Raoul’s has been on Prince Street in SoHo since the 1970s. That’s thirty years before SoHo hit the primetime. It was before Chanel and Prada took up residence. Before the rents and hotel rates skyrocketed. Before other restaurants arrived because it was trendy.

To know this history is to fully appreciate the genuine feel that Raoul’s exudes both through its food and atmosphere. Sure, models and businessmen have replaced starving artists, but that just shows how Raoul’s has grown with the neighborhood. It’s one of those restaurants that has stayed relevant and grounded, its roots deeply embedded.

Raoul’s has become one of our go-tos when we want to take NYC visitors somewhere to eat in our neighborhood. It’s got all the right ingredients to make a fun and delicious evening.

Raoul’s is unpretentious, old-school, but with just a dash of cool and newness. Take for instance, the Butternut Risotto appetizer with escargot and matsutake ragout. Orange squash and creamy rice provide the canvas for dark and chewy snails. It’s not passé; it’s almost edgy. It’s a standout dish, but Raoul’s doesn’t make a fuss about it.

Raoul’s bistro French is accessible to the masses, but flavorful enough for more discerning taste buds. Their self-touted specialty is the Steak Au Poivre entrée and it deserves its reputation. The peppercorn to meat ratio lets you enjoy the tender beef with just the right amount of kick. They fry their fries in duck fat.

Spindly frissee and tart cornichons are ideal tag-alongs for Steak Tartare.

I’ve also enjoyed almost every fish on the menu – Scallops, Wild Striped Bass, and most recently, the Bronzini. Each one is served with dueling palate pleasers of texture and taste that enhance, but never overwhelm. Their preparations are so right it’s easy to take them for granted.

It’s only when Raoul’s drifts from its center, away from its core, that things get thrown off balance.

A too prim presentation of pears with blue cheese and walnut dressing strayed from bistro fare into finicky-land.

The Wagyu Shortrib, a dish that sounded too tremendous to pass up, was missing depth of flavor and wagyu’s signature melt-in-your mouth texture.

But those dishes are two of the exceptions. Raoul’s regularly hits the mark, dish after dish. Raoul’s isn’t groundbreaking; its success rises from a solid identity that, for decades, many restaurants have unsuccessfully tried to create.

Raoul’s

http://www.raouls.com

180 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012

212.966.3518

Experimental flavors excite my taste buds.

Exquisitely plated dishes dazzle my eyes.

Scoring an almost-impossible reservation gets my blood pumping.

But it’s the solid neighborhood restaurants that capture my heart and I might just be in love with Jane.

All the right ingredients make Jane a neighborhood go-to. The food is consistent and well prepared. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable. The atmosphere is casual and attractive. The service is congenial and efficient.

One of Jane’s most impressive feats is that every meal they serve – lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch – is executed with equal aplomb. Jane achieves mass appeal without over-extending its menu boundaries. While there are enough choices to keep a wide array of diners happy, just as its name implies, at Jane, things are kept simple.

At lunchtime, the salads and sandwiches reign. The Chopped Market Salad with chicken is my personal favorite, but the Grilled Chicken Salad and Steak Salad are not far behind.

Hefty sandwiches either come with salad or a mound of Jane’s signature rosemary fries. The Jane burger, another Jane classic, is available at both lunch and dinner. While it’s a solid burger, the zesty sauce that graces the burger at The Smith (one of Jane’s sister restaurants) gives the patty a lot more flavor. There are also a few omelet selections that nicely complement the rest of the lunch menu.

If you’re in the mood for something a little fancier, a handful of dishes – Chatham Cod, Hanger Steak, and Risotto – are also available.

You can indulge in a starter either at lunch or dinner, though the list of small plates doubles at night. You can’t go wrong with either the Goat Cheese Flat Bread or the Gnocchi.

For dinner, I have a hard time passing up the Big Pot of Mussels and the rosemary fries that so perfectly soak up their tarragon, Riesling, and mustard broth. You’ll be hard-pressed not to find something that appeals to whatever your whim might be – the Chatham Cod and Steak Frites have expeditiously satiated my own cravings.

For Saturday and Sunday brunch, over a dozen breakfast options are added to Jane’s lunch menu of salads and sandwiches. While there’s Vanilla Bean French Toast and a handful of egg scrambles, the Benedict Johnny is particularly tasty. Poached eggs sit atop maple apple chicken sausage and corn cakes.

Oh, and the best part about brunch (other than the amazing cranberry and nut bread?) . . . if you eat after noon, your meal comes with a complimentary brunch cocktail.

This Jane might be simple, but she’s far from plain.

Jane

www.ctrnyc.com/JANE

100 West Houston Street

New York, NY 10012

212.254.7000

Aqua Grill has been at the top of my “to-eat” list. Its all fish and seafood menu, its SoHo veteran status, and its casual coolness were as inviting as the deep blue building itself.

A couple of weeks ago five of us dined at the established fish-haven. Somehow, we all managed to get caught up in the Chef’s Specialties menu, a list of scrumptious sounding cooked fish dishes. But if more of our attention had been directed towards the Raw Bar, we would have left much happier.

Aqua Grill offers over two-dozen types of oysters; it is one of the most impressive raw bar selections in the city. The shellfish hail from points West and East. They’re arranged by price, starting at $1.95 (Blue Point) and ending at $3.15 (Raspberry Point). Little Neck and Cherrystone Clams hide at the bottom of the list despite their lower cost.

Each of us ordered our favorites, a “one of this, one of that, and one of those” type of mish mash. Our server didn’t flinch. He was also very adept at answering questions about the staggeringly (but fabulously) overwhelming list.

When the platter arrived and the first Kumomoto slid from its shell and into my mouth I began to wonder if we shouldn’t have ordered more of the slippery indulgences. Determined to give the gleaming platter all my attention, I put such thoughts from my head. My instincts (though realized too late) turned out to be correct. If there was ever a time I wanted to rewind an order, it was at Aqua Grill.

Aside from the Blowfish Tail Tempura, the appetizers we sampled weren’t bad or great. As the Warm Octopus Salad, Peekytoe Crab Napoleon, and Summer Gazpacho were passed around the table, everyone seemed to have the same reaction: a bite, a thoughtful pause, and then a shoulder shrug.

The Blowfish, on the other hand, was a unique menu item and a delicious one. It was served with a light soy dipping sauce and if you weren’t paying attention (or you over-dipped), you might have missed the fish’s flavor.

When we ordered our main dishes, our server made a large to-do about how each fish would be prepared. The Yellowfin Tuna would be rare. The Atlantic Salmon and the Diver Sea Scallops would be medium-rare. “Was this okay with us?” He asked. And of course it was, that’s exactly how we like it. A tablemate who ordered the Casco Bay Cod chimed in to make sure that his would also be prepared similarly. It was the server’s turn to say “Yes, of course.”

When our entrees finally arrived three out of the five were over-cooked. The tuna was medium. The salmon was medium. The cod was medium.

With the ill-prepared fish at their core, the dishes fell apart. The falafel-crusted salmon could have been a brilliant assembly of textures, but in our version the dusty encasement only accentuated the dry fish. The tuna, a sad gray color, had been robbed of its flavor. As for the cod, while its mushroom-themed sides were devoured, most of the fish was left untouched.

Only the Sea Scallops and Wild Alaskan White Salmon had escaped the heat. The scallops, however, met with their own demise. They were rendered obsolete by the good but overpowering Crabmeat Risotto that accompanied them.

The White Salmon was prepared perfectly (hoorah!) and the rich fish had a melt-in-your-mouth quality we all coveted.

We complained to our waiter and our plight was taken very seriously. The manager offered to have our entrees re-cooked, but it was nearing 11:30pm on Friday night and we just couldn’t muster the energy. As I mentioned in last week’s post, we were ultimately awarded with two free desserts to make up for the preparation miscues.

As the manager apologized to us, a large platter of shucked oysters passed behind her en route to another table. I licked my lips, trying to recall the delectable taste of the Martha’s Vineyard Oyster I had earlier. I vowed to return. But next time, I won’t let my food stop in the kitchen.

Aqua Grill

www.aquagrill.com

210 Spring Street

New York, NY 10013

212.274.0505

While Fiamma’s interior was getting a facelift last year, new chef Fabio Trabocchi was busy re-inventing the menu. While Trabocchi was born in the Le Marche region of Italy and his food is founded firmly in these roots, his complicated preparations illustrate a flair for creativity that draws on influences outside of Italy’s borders. The result is modern and imaginative Italian food, though sometimes it seems, Trabocchi lets his imagination get away from him.

Supple black leather chairs, sleek tile work, lacquered wood, square-framed artwork, and amber orbs of light create a sophisticated and chic environment. Gorgeous dishware, in varying shapes and sizes, is flanked by contemporary cutlery. Aesthetics have not trumped comfort, and despite the chic surroundings, Fiamma feels relaxed, not stuffy. Maybe even too relaxed? We were disappointed to find many diners in jeans.

The service was more friendly than skilled. For the pricey fare, a few miscues were hard to overlook. In addition, the temperature of the dining room and the food was an issue throughout the evening. In the dining room, we would be pushing up our sleeves one minute and reaching for our wraps and sweaters the next. Every course arrived from the kitchen a few degrees too cool.

Before I move onto the food, I must mention the cost of dinner at Fiamma. When I made this reservation at the end of 2007, the price of Fiamma’s 3-course tasting menu was $75. Imagine my surprise when we opened our menus in January to find that it had been increased by twenty percent – to $89! There is no a la carte menu at Fiamma. You have a choice of a 3-, 5- or 7-course tasting menu. The 3-course menu, offered at $89, does not include dessert.

Some dishes succeeded. Some, despite intense thought and preparation, fell flat. Others, promised to be interestingly fussy on the menu, but their execution lacked vital flavor and texture. Le Vongole e La Seppia, a delicate stew of smoked cuttlefish and mussels, was lovely to admire but too salty. La Misticanza, a lovely salad of radicchio and pears tented by rectangles of pecorino excelled in its simplicity.

If you keep up with these reviews, you will have read about the Burrata we had at Supper a couple weeks ago. First, let’s forget that the Burrata at Supper was quadruple in size compared to the one at Fiamma. Next, let’s ignore that at Supper it was one third of the price. What was impossible to overcome was that Supper’s had much better consistency and flavor.

Fragrant saffron was not enough to rescue the soupy Risotto and its underdone rice. The Gnocchi’s ginger infused sauce had an unappealing tang and despite pieces of lobster, the dish was certainly not worth its $15 supplemental price tag (yes, that is on top of the $89). The Le March Lasagna was outstanding. Spherical pasta is layered with a decadent mélange of liver, gizzards, and sweetbreads.

For the Vitello, a pink and prim veal ribeye sits next to a deep and dark, slow-cooked veal cheek. The underlying potato puree and crunchy hazelnuts confirmed the dish as a triumph. Both the meat and cauliflower stufati of the L’Agnello, the Colorado Lamb, lacked heartiness. The hint of game in Il Fagiano, the pheasant, provided the ideal canvas, but an uninspired preparation took no advantage.

We dug deeper into our wallets and decided to order dessert. La Pera, a warm and buttery pear cake, was perfection. The Gianduia, a milk chocolate cream and Gianduia ice cream lacked richness and intensity.

Fiamma puts on a great show, but the price of admission was simply too high.

Fiamma

www.brguestrestaurants.com/restaurants/fiamma_new_york

206 Spring Street

New York, NY 10013

(212) 653-0100

Though I’ve walked by this space numerous times, I was still surprised at the petite size of the dining area. Shorty’s .32 does not take reservations, but the four of us strolled in at 7:30pm on a Tuesday and were promptly seated under the unique, if not odd, array of lamp shades that hang from the ceiling. Josh Eden, who is chef and partner of this cozy SoHo restaurant, spent more than a decade working with Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Safe to say, it shows. Shorty’s .32 serves American comfort food with just the right touch of sophistication and pizzazz. Combine the cuisine with overly generous portion sizes, reasonable prices, and friendly service, and you’ve got a recipe for a great neighborhood place.

The only below par aspect of my evening came the moment I sat down. These days, I’ve become accustomed to the whimsical cocktail menus that have become so popular at restaurants. I look forward to perusing a list of homemade concoctions. While Shorty’s has a full bar, they only have a couple of special cocktail options. The Vespa Martini I sipped was inspired. It was the lack of other fanciful choices that was disappointing.

A handful of plump, Grilled Shrimp arrive in a pristine line. Celery root and bacon jus lend balance, and despite their usually distinct flavors, do not overpower the shellfish. Precisely cooked, the table unanimously voted this dish as the favorite starter. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, intense with the vegetable’s flavor, wasn’t far behind. Quarter-sized potato chips start stacked in a centered pile, though the hot liquid slowly melts them, leaving them soft, starchy and sprinkled throughout the soup. The Crispy Crabsticks, essentially three crab cakes, each in log form, showed no signs of filler and were dense with tender crabmeat. While this homage to fishsticks did provide maximum surface area of fried crunchiness, it did not transform the dish into the quirky creation we were expecting. The dish is heavy, and a portion size adjustment would be wise. The pasta starter, Cavatelli with Arugula and Mushroom Ragout, tasted fresh and homemade, but it lacked the hearty and robust flavors I crave this time of year.

Black Sea Bass, pan seared, was light and flavorful. A bite of the luscious fish along with its accompaniments, quinoa and pickled beets, erased all skepticism I initially had of this unique pairing. The grainy quinoa, with hints of toasted nuts, provided texture. The pickled beets provided just the right amount of acid to cut the dish beautifully. Crispy skin, moist meat, and organic deliciousness made for a superb Roast Chicken. A chicken prepared so well, it alone would bring you back to Shorty’s, again and again. The mashed potatoes were dense and creamy; the chilled green beans crisp and refreshing.  Rich and velvety sauce smothered the succulent Braised Short Ribs. The sauce, the color of dark chocolate, was reminiscent of a Mexican mole. Though served on the same plate, the accompanying macaroni and cheese, browned and bubbling with cheesy goodness, comes in its own mini-casserole dish.

Personally, I would change the name of the Toasted Pound Cake on the dessert menu. Something like Berry Shortcake seems more apt. One of my fellow diners turned his nose up when this seemingly pedestrian confection made our list of two desserts. And, while I’ll admit it sounds a bit boring, it is actually a divine version of the classic, laden with mixed berries and whipped cream. The Chocolate Bread Pudding, perhaps having also undergone a bit of a facelift, tasted more like a dense chocolate cake than the spongy delight we were expecting. The sliced bananas, layered on top, looked too formal and out of place for this casual eatery.

Shorty’s .32

www.shortys32.com

199 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 375-8275

Seventeen years ago, Peter Hoffman opened Savoy. A sourcing pioneer, Hoffman was determined to showcase the flavors of local ingredients in his home-style cooking. By surviving an eternity in the ever revolving door of restaurant openings, closings and re-inventions, Savoy has achieved quite a feat and I was anxious to experience food from a kitchen that has lasted close to two decades. The culinary world continues to evolve, providing many more organic and consciously-sourced raw ingredients, both to restaurants and to those who cook at home. Our palates have learned to differentiate between organic and non-organic meat; our keen eyes have begun to recognize the names of farms; our conscious minds ask more questions about the origination of food that is put in front of us. Suddenly, breeds of lamb lovingly raised for consumption cannot stand alone on our plates. We’ve tasted the high quality elsewhere and our matured palates require more from the dishes. Even those who have forged the way must now keep up.  

Savoy is housed on two floors of a townhouse in SoHo and for dinner you’re well advised to request a table on the second floor. The second floor was abuzz with conversation and aside from the urban crowd, there are moments you might believe you’re tucked away on a country road. The tables situated along the walls are pushed closely together, but we were never bothered by our neighbors. Service was disappointing from the moment we sat down. I constantly hoped it would improve, but it was consistently unimpressive. Our server, though sweet, disappeared for long stretches at a time (a seemingly impossible feat considering the small dining area) and empty plates from each course were left on the table for minutes too long. I simply never felt that she cared about our experience at Savoy.

It is rare to find a sausage that stands boldly on its own and does not require either a pile of grilled peppers and onions or a dip of mustard. Meet Savoy’s Homemade Pork Sausage, plump with moist ground pork and flavor. The Grilled Shrimp were a bit too simple and while promises of pomegranate seeds and citrus heirloom were fulfilled, it was done with such little fanfare that to notice their presence took great concentration. Despite a typical combination of beets and cheese in the Marinated Beet Salad, a reversal of the expected textures and flavors delivered a unique dish. In Savoy’s version, marinade-softened beets, infused with a light, yet slightly salty flavor from the seasoned liquid are paired with a mild fromage blanc. The inclusion of snails in the Red Wine Risotto stood out as the most interesting starter, though whether ill-conceived or ill-prepared, the dish was a disappointment. The risotto lacked creaminess, tasting more watered down than rich and while flavorful, the snails were not a cohesive part of the dish.

The Duck Baked with a Salt Crust was a magnificent piece of meat. It was immensely flavorful and though cooked a bit more to the medium side, was extremely tender. The encasing layer of fat was seasoned well. The accompanying roasted bites of sweet potato provided a good flavor contrast without too much sugar. The amount of velvety parsnip puree was so miniscule it was almost invisible. The Lamb Shank, braised and falling off the bone, arrives in a bowl of juices and cauliflower. I was expecting a heavier dish and while there was something refreshing about a lighter piece of lamb, I found myself wishing the dish was more robust. The Pork Roulade was yet another stunning cut of meat, but the accompaniments of polenta, marmalade and pecans vanished in the first handful of bites, leaving one very large piece of pork, albeit a succulent one, to be devoured on its lonesome. The Brussel Sprouts we ordered as a side were simply roasted and a bit too bitter. The bacon lardons were sufficiently salty, but somehow they did not impart enough flavor onto the brussel sprouts.

To only order one Chocolate and Caramel Trifle was a mistake. The complexity and melding of flavors and textures is nothing short of brilliant. After we all dipped our spoons and experienced a bite of this salty, sweet, creamy and crumbly confection, the mistake was so blatant that we caucused on ordering a second. The Autumn Harvest Crisp, featuring pear, squash, dried cherries and topped with walnut ice cream was the second place winner. The melange of fruits was unique and each flavor emerges on its own without overpowering its partners. Served in a shallow dish, every bite was equal parts fruit, topping, and ice cream. The Mission Fig Tart, which attempts contrast through its peppercorn poached figs and honeyed yogurt, was bland. The taste of peppercorns and honey never came to fruition leaving the dish to fall flat.

While there were a few standout dishes, overall Savoy was good, but far from great.

Savoy

www.savoynyc.com

70 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 219-8570

While its name, and the dark building in which Omen resides might be a bit foreboding, once you step inside you’re instantly transported across the Pacific. This establishment, with roots in Kyoto, has an authentic Japanese menu and atmosphere. Warm wood, sliding screen doors, and a welcoming staff invite you settle in and savor the food. But don’t enter this Japanese oasis expecting nigiri and spicy tuna rolls; the only raw fish offering is sashimi. Contemplate one of the Japanese Tasting Dinners as they give you a great sampling of tastes and flavors. Most importantly, remember to bring lots of cash. Omen is pricey and they only accept American Express.

The Crab and Yuba roll, devoid of both rice and seaweed, is unlike any roll you’ve had before. A sweet pea, enveloped by dense and tender crabmeat, is then rolled in fried soy bean curd. A small dip into the pool of vinegar, served on the side in a shallow dish, added the perfect tang of acid.

We opted for the Special Sashimi plate, a combination of tuna, fluke, yellowtail, red snapper, sea urchin, salmon, salmon-roe, and avocado. Having chosen seats at the small counter, we were afforded a view of this dish’s laborious creation. Each piece of fish was cut lovingly, salmon-roe was gently laid atop a lemon half, sea urchin spread upon a cucumber disk, and garnishes were crafted by the order, not taken from a water bath. The homemade wasabi, with finely minced horse radish, gave each melt-in-your-mouth piece just the right pop. The thought of the red snapper, with a slightly spiced skin, has since awoken my taste buds in the middle of the night.

The Black Cod, marinated in miso and grilled, while not unfamiliar in Japanese cuisine, is hard to pass up. This generous portion of cod was more savory than many of its relatives. An abundance of crispy skin protected glistening and flaky fish.

We saved the famous bowl of Omen noodles for our last course. When the restaurant first opened, it was actually nameless; the ensuing fame of their omen udon is what eventually provided it. Omen noodles are pale, round noodles with significant nutritional value. At Omen, the diner is brought a bowl of broth, a bowl of udon noodles, sesame seeds, red pepper flakes, and traditional vegetables (daikon, spinach, sprouts). If you’re feeling overwhelmed, the server is happy to explain assembly guidelines. The result is hearty, well-seasoned, and slippery. The best part being that as the assembler, you can take some credit.

Omen

113 Thompson Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 925-8923

Cash or American Express Only